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How do you make an quick and easy hologram? Provide simple instructions.
Answer
It's easier to make a 3D hologram than you think. In fact, each year thousands of hobbyists, students, and teachers make holograms at home and school. To make a hologram, you'll need some basic holography supplies and household items (budget about $100), a quiet and dark room, and about 30-60 minutes.
Holography Supplies
Note: Budget is around $100
1. PFG-03M professional holographic film plates
2. Red holography laser. The instructions above assume the use of the Integraf Holography Laser (4mW, 650nm), since it has an adjustable lens. If your laser does not have adjustable lens, you'll need to get an external lens (beam spreader).
3. JD-4 Holography Processing Kit
4. PhotoFlo wetting agent (optional)
Household Materials
1. A bright hard object, preferably sturdy metal, i.e. coins, metal toy car (to be the subject of your hologram)
2. One flat hardcover book 6âx8â (150x200mm) or larger (to serve as a shutter).
3. Six 1-liter bottles (1.5 gallons) of distilled water (to prepare the processing chemicals)
4. Three small trays with flat bottoms 3âx3â or larger (to serve as developer trays)
5. Three large trays (or bowls) with flat bottoms 4âx5â or preferably larger (to serve as rinse trays)
6. One rubber kitchen glove or tongs (to handle the holographic plate while developing)
Optional
1. A basic nightlight available at your supermarket or green safelight (to conveniently see in the dark room)
2. A computer mouse pad or a tray of sand (or salt or sugar) with width, length, and height of very roughly 6âx8âx2â (15x20x5cm) or larger (to serve as a vibration isolation system)
3. A small cup filled with sand (to hold the laser)âsalt or sugar also works.
Steps:
1. Gather your holography supplies and household materials listed above.
2. Define your laboratory space. Choose a sturdy table or counter in a dark room that is free of noise, vibration, air currents, and small movements (creaky floors, etc.). If you don't have a sturdy table, a concrete basement floor works well.
3. Prepare the subject of your hologram by placing the subject securely on the sturdy table. If you have a computer mouse pad or tray of sand, place the subject on top of that. This helps minimize any vibrations.
4. Prepare your diode laser (or laser pointer) about 30cm away the subject by bracing it with a clothespin and then sticking the clothespin into a cup of salt or sugar.
If your diode laser has an adjustable lens, take off that lens and position the laser so that its beam spreads out horizontally in an elliptical shape (it looks similar to that of a loaf of bread).
If your laser doesn't have an adjustable lens, secure an optical diverging lens to another clothespin and cup of salt so that the laser beam shines through it to spread the light.
5. Position the laser until the subject is fully illuminated.
6. Turn off all lights. You can use a nightlight placed under the table or even slightly crack open the door to see in the darkened room. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system. The room should be dark enough that one cannot read.
7. Block the laser light from reaching the subject with a book. The book will serve like a shutter of a camera.
8. Remove one holographic film plate from its box in the darkest part of the room, and carefully lean it against the object. Wait 10-20 seconds to let the plate settle against the object.
9. Slowly lift the âshutterâ slightly off the table a half inch (1cm) while still blocking the laser light from reaching any part of the plate, and wait a few seconds for any vibration to subside.
10. Lift the shutter all the way up to expose the holographic plate and object for about 10 seconds.
11. Block the laser light again by placing the book back on the table.
12. Process the plate according to instructions that accompany the holography processing kit. This process takes about 3-5 minutes total. For making basic holograms, the process of developing is actually quite simple:
a. Mix the dried powder photochemicals with distilled bottle water to form two solutions: the developer and the bleach
b. Dip and wiggle plate in developer for 20 seconds
c. Rinse in water for 30 seconds
d. Dip and wiggle plate in bleach for 20 seconds
e. Rinse in water for 30 seconds
f. Dry with hair dryer
The dried chemical powder photochemicals can be individually put together by going to a photochemist, but is more expensive since only 1 gram of several chemicals is needed, and few photochemists sell in such small amounts. The JD-4 kit recommended in this article puts all the chemicals into a kit and is happens to be the only such kit available. It is preferred by beginners.
13. Dry the holographic plate vertically. A simple way to do this is by placing the plate on a paper towel and lean it against a wall. If time is limited, you can carefully blow warm air across the holographic plate using a hair dryer from at least foot (30cm) away. Avoid high heat.
14. Vie
It's easier to make a 3D hologram than you think. In fact, each year thousands of hobbyists, students, and teachers make holograms at home and school. To make a hologram, you'll need some basic holography supplies and household items (budget about $100), a quiet and dark room, and about 30-60 minutes.
Holography Supplies
Note: Budget is around $100
1. PFG-03M professional holographic film plates
2. Red holography laser. The instructions above assume the use of the Integraf Holography Laser (4mW, 650nm), since it has an adjustable lens. If your laser does not have adjustable lens, you'll need to get an external lens (beam spreader).
3. JD-4 Holography Processing Kit
4. PhotoFlo wetting agent (optional)
Household Materials
1. A bright hard object, preferably sturdy metal, i.e. coins, metal toy car (to be the subject of your hologram)
2. One flat hardcover book 6âx8â (150x200mm) or larger (to serve as a shutter).
3. Six 1-liter bottles (1.5 gallons) of distilled water (to prepare the processing chemicals)
4. Three small trays with flat bottoms 3âx3â or larger (to serve as developer trays)
5. Three large trays (or bowls) with flat bottoms 4âx5â or preferably larger (to serve as rinse trays)
6. One rubber kitchen glove or tongs (to handle the holographic plate while developing)
Optional
1. A basic nightlight available at your supermarket or green safelight (to conveniently see in the dark room)
2. A computer mouse pad or a tray of sand (or salt or sugar) with width, length, and height of very roughly 6âx8âx2â (15x20x5cm) or larger (to serve as a vibration isolation system)
3. A small cup filled with sand (to hold the laser)âsalt or sugar also works.
Steps:
1. Gather your holography supplies and household materials listed above.
2. Define your laboratory space. Choose a sturdy table or counter in a dark room that is free of noise, vibration, air currents, and small movements (creaky floors, etc.). If you don't have a sturdy table, a concrete basement floor works well.
3. Prepare the subject of your hologram by placing the subject securely on the sturdy table. If you have a computer mouse pad or tray of sand, place the subject on top of that. This helps minimize any vibrations.
4. Prepare your diode laser (or laser pointer) about 30cm away the subject by bracing it with a clothespin and then sticking the clothespin into a cup of salt or sugar.
If your diode laser has an adjustable lens, take off that lens and position the laser so that its beam spreads out horizontally in an elliptical shape (it looks similar to that of a loaf of bread).
If your laser doesn't have an adjustable lens, secure an optical diverging lens to another clothespin and cup of salt so that the laser beam shines through it to spread the light.
5. Position the laser until the subject is fully illuminated.
6. Turn off all lights. You can use a nightlight placed under the table or even slightly crack open the door to see in the darkened room. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system. The room should be dark enough that one cannot read.
7. Block the laser light from reaching the subject with a book. The book will serve like a shutter of a camera.
8. Remove one holographic film plate from its box in the darkest part of the room, and carefully lean it against the object. Wait 10-20 seconds to let the plate settle against the object.
9. Slowly lift the âshutterâ slightly off the table a half inch (1cm) while still blocking the laser light from reaching any part of the plate, and wait a few seconds for any vibration to subside.
10. Lift the shutter all the way up to expose the holographic plate and object for about 10 seconds.
11. Block the laser light again by placing the book back on the table.
12. Process the plate according to instructions that accompany the holography processing kit. This process takes about 3-5 minutes total. For making basic holograms, the process of developing is actually quite simple:
a. Mix the dried powder photochemicals with distilled bottle water to form two solutions: the developer and the bleach
b. Dip and wiggle plate in developer for 20 seconds
c. Rinse in water for 30 seconds
d. Dip and wiggle plate in bleach for 20 seconds
e. Rinse in water for 30 seconds
f. Dry with hair dryer
The dried chemical powder photochemicals can be individually put together by going to a photochemist, but is more expensive since only 1 gram of several chemicals is needed, and few photochemists sell in such small amounts. The JD-4 kit recommended in this article puts all the chemicals into a kit and is happens to be the only such kit available. It is preferred by beginners.
13. Dry the holographic plate vertically. A simple way to do this is by placing the plate on a paper towel and lean it against a wall. If time is limited, you can carefully blow warm air across the holographic plate using a hair dryer from at least foot (30cm) away. Avoid high heat.
14. Vie
Home designers- any options for an open space?
Caroline
We redesigned our kitchen a few years ago and there is this open space that makes the kitchen feel somewhat empty. We want to put a small pub table there but I think that might be too much and will give a cluttered appearance. What are some other options to put in that space?
Answer
I think a table or island would be fine and it would create extra working/eating space which always comes in handy. A pub table is a bit higher - 42" I think? If you're concerned about not wanting your kitchen to look too closed in, I would stick with the same height of your existing base cabinets - 36"h. Also, keep it very simple and open on the bottom, this will visually create a more open look. Many people have cabinets at the bottom of their islands but you didn't mention needed more storage so that may not be necessary for you. Just have four legs and a top. Use backless bar stools that can be tucked under the table, not high ones with backs that would require them to be sticking out more in the space of your kitchen - that will not cause the seating to take up additional room.
If you add the same color and style counter top (laminate, granite, Corian, etc) as on your existing counters it will totally tie in and be cohesive with the rest of your kitchen even if the base color is different. I purposely am making my island a darker espresso for contrast and variety.
One caveat: you need to make sure that there is enough room on either side between existing walls and cabinets for traffic to pass by and also to cook for this to work. I would not go less than 36" inches, though 40" or more would be best. I have a small island in my kitchen that is 78" x 24"w and am redesigning it without the cabinets underneath so it can be used like I suggested above - as a place to eat and gather and also as a working space.
I think a table or island would be fine and it would create extra working/eating space which always comes in handy. A pub table is a bit higher - 42" I think? If you're concerned about not wanting your kitchen to look too closed in, I would stick with the same height of your existing base cabinets - 36"h. Also, keep it very simple and open on the bottom, this will visually create a more open look. Many people have cabinets at the bottom of their islands but you didn't mention needed more storage so that may not be necessary for you. Just have four legs and a top. Use backless bar stools that can be tucked under the table, not high ones with backs that would require them to be sticking out more in the space of your kitchen - that will not cause the seating to take up additional room.
If you add the same color and style counter top (laminate, granite, Corian, etc) as on your existing counters it will totally tie in and be cohesive with the rest of your kitchen even if the base color is different. I purposely am making my island a darker espresso for contrast and variety.
One caveat: you need to make sure that there is enough room on either side between existing walls and cabinets for traffic to pass by and also to cook for this to work. I would not go less than 36" inches, though 40" or more would be best. I have a small island in my kitchen that is 78" x 24"w and am redesigning it without the cabinets underneath so it can be used like I suggested above - as a place to eat and gather and also as a working space.
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